OSAKA: GREAT TIPS & TRICKS

This is the unedited version of my sidebar article for the June 2014 issue of Cruising, a Manila Bulletin publication. Thanks again to the editors.

1. Do not miss the foreign exchange counter at Kansai International Airport. You will not miss it due to the queue: 

Step 1: Someone gives you a form. Step 2: Someone checks your form. Step 3: Someone takes your form and money. 

Step 4: Someone releases your crisp Yen bills.

It will be difficult to withdraw from Japanese ATMs and finding a ForEx shop may be difficult.

2. Osaka has two main railway operators at the airport, Japan Railways (JR) and Nankai Namba. It is easy to be intimidated by the ticket vending machines, so approach any staff at the counter beside them for any help, to save time.

3. Breakfast at most high-end hotels can be expensive. Look for the closest Yoshinoya, for a hearty bowl of beef strips (small bowls at ¥280/P120). The rules are simple: sit, eat, go. There will be someone waiting for your seat more often than not. 

4. Soda is expensive. but service water is clean. A small bottle of cola at restaurants is around ¥200/P85.

5. When having Furai (deep fried meat or veggies, different from tempura), you should only dip your stick once into the bowl of sauce, as respect for other diners. The Ebi Furai (deep fried prawn) is a must-try.

6. When paying at a restaurant (or any other establishment), place your money on the small tray beside the cash register. You should also get your change from here. It is bad etiquette to hand your money directly to the cashier.

7. One subway station may have multiple lines passing through them. The easiest way to remember which line you need to take is by remembering their colors. Train tickets start at ¥200/P85. A station may be humongous so remember what your exit number is. Getting out of the wrong one may mean another 15-minute walk back to where you should have been.

8. Taxi is expensive and may only be practical for short distances when there are three to four passengers. A five to ten minute ride may set you back ¥650/P280, so be wise. If it's one to two train stations away, it may be cheaper to take a taxi. Or better, just walk.

9. Trinkets as pasalubong can also be expensive. Decent keychains are around ¥400/P170 and fridge magnets are at ¥500/P210. You can just get authentic gifts for friends from convenience stores like 7-11 or Family Mart.

10. Those working in the service industry do not expect you to tip. If you really want to appreciate great customer service, you may just give them small peso bills and say they are souvenirs from your country. •

My Osaka Opening

Everyone wants to go to Tokyo. Well, at least those I know. But Tokyo was too crowded for me. Too busy. And yeah, too expensive.

So when a budget airline started flying to Osaka, I got very excited. Four years and several seat sales later, I finally booked a real promo ticket. 

Elmer and I landed in the evening at Kansai International Airport. The customs staff stopped us (tough luck, yup, both of us). Now a tip for all those who'd be as unfortunate as we are - if you are never hiding anything prohibited, there is no reason to panic. Try searching Australia's Border Patrol on YouTube. 

The lady asked that we lay our luggage on their counter. She scanned all the contents of my for-a-fee baggage, and said "Thank you. You can go."

Right before we exited the airport, we were stopped by civilian airport police who asked us to show our passports. I was doubtful. What if this was a setup. A scam. Worthy of an episode on Scam City.

"Where are you going?", he asked. He looked harmless but the clandestine act of flashing his badge was a red flag for me.

"Osaka," I said. 

Come on, I was tired and hungry and I wasn't even carrying any drugs. Why the hell would we be stopped, twice, when everyone else seemed to be just breezing through all of the  checkpoints.

"Where are you going to stay?," the guy asked. At this point, I can tell Elmer was really worried. The police already had asked for our passport. Which I didn't want to give him. But i didn't want to spend my night in the airport detention room either. 

Light bulb moment: I took our hotel voucher out of my coat's inner pocket and instead of trying to give him a I-booked-a-hotel defense, I asked, "How do we get to Namba?".

His face transitioned from strict-looking to excited. Like a new tour guide who just got his first client. He pointed us to the train station.

"Just take the elevators up to the second floor, then turn left."

I smiled while he returned our passports. I thanked him and his "Goodbye!" was this country's way of saying "Welcome to Japan!"

Osaka is actually an hour away from KIX. You can take the train. Or the bus. Or a taxi. Taxi is a lot more comfortable and should be fine if you are willing to pay P16,000. One-way. No typo, no extra zero: sixteen thousand pesos.

So, after changing money at the airport, we took the train. The station was right outside the airport's main building. And when we got there, I was totally confused. 

So there's JR. And there's Nanka. 

If there was one thing I hated about my pre-research, it was that I couldn't figure out how the railway systems in Japan work. I mean, Seoul's Subway System looked more complicated than a spider's web but it doesn't take a genius to figure it out.  But Osaka's? You have to experience it to understand it. 

I was standing in front of the ticket machine. Above me is a complicated  train system map. And around me are possibly more than twenty other machines. I looked at the monitor and after five minutes, I concluded that I couldn't figure it all out.

Elmer asked the counter and the staff explained we can buy the ticket from him. Why didn't the machine say so? The ticket to Namba Station, our base for the trip, was 1100 Yen. Around P500. That wasn't bad at all. Considering that we were all alone, save for one guy, in car number 6.

A little over half an hour later, past the suburbs, we got to Osaka's Namba Station in the Minami Area.

It was a good thing our hotel was right at the station. We could even call someone to pick us up from their special kiosk at the station. But we were in a hurry to check in. 

Now, the hotels in Japan do not come cheap. I mean, you can get hotels for as little as P2,000++ but that'd mean living in a matchbox. And with the amount we paid (about P7,500 per night), we got a bigger room. A great view of Osaka. A couch. A bath tub. And a bed that can sleep twenty people. Okay, I was exaggerating, but it was really big. 

The only problem I have with paying close to $200/night is that the rate does not even include breakfast. No, not even one piece of a teeny weeny Takoyaki Ball. •

The FlashPacker's Busan Top Six

This post is the un-edited version of one of two articles published on CRUISING | GOING PLACES, a Manila Bulletin publication, in September 2013. I'd like to thank the editorial board for this dream come true •

Busan is to Seoul, as Cebu is to Manila. Refusing to pale in comparison to its more metropolitan sister, Busan, though a lot more laid-back, has its own charm. If you are tired of how busy Seoul is, but still want to experience Urban Korea, Busan is the place for you. Never miss these top attractions, all within minutes away from each other.

1. Shinesegae Department Store, Centum City

Connected to the Centum City subway station, the world's largest department store, is just three train stops away from Haeundae. The humongous building has at least 14 floors of shopping, which include four floors of golf driving range, multiple floors of restaurants and cinemas, and luxury boutique stores. Men's wear is on the fifth floor and ladies' wear, well, is everywhere else.There is a dedicated wall near the cinema that looks like one giant tablet. You can play with the touch screen, so you take a photo, and see your picture floating with others’, minutes after.

2. Rodeo Outlet, Haeundae

There is very limited information online about this shopping complex near Haeundae Beach. In fact, you may even miss it if you just stay in the areas around thebeach. Take the subway's green line, get off at Jung-dong Station. The outlets are a five-minute walk from E-Mart, a giant 24-hour supermarket. Just follow the bike path towards the beach. It's a great shopping alternative to Gwangbokro, Nampo-dong’s crowds (Busan's equivalent of Myeongdong), with rows of outlet stores from Calvin Klein to DKNY, to a popular local clothingbrand Basic House, which could just probably be South Korea's Giordano or Bench. Outlets mean rock-bottom prices, with Basic House ladies' tops starting at W5,000/P200 and men's button down shirts from W10,000/P400. Patience is necessary as you rummage through a pile of surplus clothing.

3. Jagalchi Fish Market

Ajummas (older, usually married women) dolled up in purple eye shadows sell today's catch from the sea, fromwhale meat to 10-inch giant prawns (W10,000/P400), in South Korea's largest seafood market. It's their local version of Dampa and you can bring your latest purchase upstairs to have it cooked, your style. 

4. BIFF

Not too far from Jagalchi is the BIFF Square (Busan International Film Festival). The film fest is usually held during Fall, but there's a lot to do here all year round, in case you miss this annual event.

BIFF Square has its own version of the Walk of Fame.There is also an outlet store selling Zara overruns near the entrance (men's shirts start from W5,000/P200).

Don't forget to try Korean street food too, especially Ssiat Hotteok, a popular pancake filled with sunflowerseeds.

5. Haeundae Beach

Busan's massive beach, Haeundae, is actually South Korea's largest. 

Accommodation range from beachside hotels (Haeundae Centum Hotel W400,000/P16,000) to motels behind the main roads (Sugar Motel W50,000/P2,000). If you are not particular with big windows and sea views, you can just walk into the alleys behind the more expensive hotels and choose from several love motels, which include facilities at par with hotels, like a big flat screen TV, water dispenser, PC with ultra-fast internet, and a whirlpool bath. 

Haeundae gets crowded in summer with tourists competing for personal space by the sea, since Busan is considered as South Korea’s summer capital.

If you are missing Western Food, head to Friday's TGIF), which offers fantastic views of the beach across the street. The staff will happily sing Korean songs, complete with musical instruments, if it's your birthday. If it’s not, you can always pretend that it is.

6. Dwaeji Gukbap

Dwaeji Gukbap or Pork Soup Rice is actually a historical dish. During the Korean War, galbi or beef was too expensive, so refugees had to substitute it with pork. The result was Dwaeji Gukbap, the Korean version ofgoto, which you eat with side dishes and Saeujeot, fermented baby shrimp sauce, which tastes like patis.

If you happen to land in Busan on a cold night, head to the Gukbap Alley near Seomyeon Station in the Green Subway Line for an authentic Busan gastronomic experience! •

DEATH IN CAMBODIA Part 3

Angkor Wat

"What do you call this?", you point to the photo on your phone, asking the waiter where this big tree is. Though you didn't see Angelina's Tomb Raider.

"Ta Prohm," the Angkor Cafe waiter says and instructs you to just tell your tuktuk driver its name and you should be there in 15 minutes.

Above: Make sure to catch the
sunrise in Angkor Wat

Below: The Giant Tree
in Ta Prohm

Yes, you thought Angkor Wat was just one big complex, with all the temples and the Tomb Raider references. An hour earlier, you were just looking for it (that big tree) in Angkor Wat, but apparently you were wrong. The "Angkor Wat" we know has multiple sites, and public transport may be a hassle, so better hire a tuktuk. You got yours for $12, with pickup from the hotel at 5am, returning after lunch.

You get to Ta Prohm and the tuktuk can't drive you past the gate anymore. TC starts snapping photos again, and the sound of Cambodian music starts to fade in. After 10 minutes of walking, you see what could be the tallest tree you have seen in your entire life.

You and TC take turns in taking each other's photos, with you avoiding to offend the monk in the background. Earlier though, you took some photos of monks, beside the house you believe they live in. You're still in shock though, after seeing a smoking monk.

Past the very organized tour group of Koreans, all obediently following their guide's instructions, you navigate back to the entrance of the compound to say goodbye to your "Angkor Wat" experience, though technically, again, this is not Angkor Wat.

It's just about noon, and while tourists marvel at the history of all these Siem Reap temples, you thought of a different thing to do. While Superman navigates the highway linking  the temples to town, you ask your tuktuk driver while the motorcycle engine roars, "Can you bring us to a market where no tourists go?". He agrees.

Fried Crickets, anyone?

Half an hour later, you and TC try to find souvenirs in a local market in the middle of nowhere. No tourists, save for a Caucasian couple who may have had temple overload too. Everything costs $5, at least that's what the storekeepers tell you. You, however, don't bother how much edible crickets your five dollars could get you. •

DEATH IN CAMBODIA Part 2

TC in a local Siem Reap Market

The Ei8ht Hotel owners, Jason and Kifi, respond to your email that they do not have a pool. And you'd think they will end their reply abruptly with a "Thank You". But you are wrong:

After reading your email, it’s best for you to stay either at the GB Resort or V Hotel (hotel names changed). Both of these 2 places are near to the city center and have swimming pools. They may cost a little more but we are pretty sure you and your companion will  have a really good time there. 

TC at Ei8ht Bar, which is another story

It doesn't end there. They have attached maps, brochures, and other links you and TC may enjoy. And as the Ei8ht Hotel owners say, "There is more to Siem Reap than temples."

You walk to Petit Villa's front desk by the pond, aftet taking a refreshing bath. While TC prepares for today's unplanned adventure, you try to reserve a tuktuk for half of the day. The tuktuk cost can be put on your bill but the receptionist Boray suggests you pay the tuktuk driver directly. He adds, "If you pay him directly, he can buy food for his family before he goes home." So $12 for four hours is not bad. At least you can just roam around the city, wherever you feel like it.

Superman's Tuktuk

Superman, your tuktuk, is already ready by the time you and TC exit Petit Villa. 

Time for another unplanned adventure!

Tuktuks on Pub Street

Khmer Lunch at Pub Street

First stop is to grab lunch at Pub Street. You really, really wish you were as adventurous as others when it comes to food. You didn't try kangaroo or snake last night, though it could have been an experience. You settle for something familiar - rice, and curry, and spring rolls. It's a little expensive, at $20 for two, but it is Pub Street - where backpackers, mostly Caucasians, stay up till the wee hours to party the night away. 

Snake or Kangaroo?
At one of Pub Street's Restaurants

Next stop is the post office to send postcards to your friends who love receiving snail mail. The post office is tucked away in a quiet part of the city. By the river. Scrap that, by the brown river. Scrap that again: By the DARK brown and murky river. And with the closest seaside being about eight hours by bus away, maybe not a good idea to order fish on this trip.

You ask Superman to bring you to the mall. Petit Villa's manager mentions that there IS a mall in Siem Reap. 

Pinoy Products in a Cambodian
Supermarket

Lucky Mall is about ten minutes away by tuktuk from the hotel. It's not much - Lucky Supermarket on the ground floor, Lucky Burger and Lucky Cafe on the second, and random shops on the third. Everything in the supermarket, well almost, is imported, mostly from Thailand. But it was interesting when you found found Skin White, Purefoods Sisig, and MaxiPeel in the supermarket shelves.

Upon your return to Petit Villa, you ask Superman to pick you up for lunch the next day, TC's birthday.

And so he does. Superman is pretty early for lunch. 

The DARK brown river

You at Neary, a Khmer Restaurant

Deep Friend "Serpant" Fish
 and Shrimp

Superman, highly recommends Neary Restaurant, while driving his tuktuk towards the outskirts of the city, past the DARK brown and murky  river. He'd probably get a commission for bringing us there, which us fine by us. 

Lo and behold, TC, who is celebrating his birthday, orders "Serpant Fish Deep Fried", off the menu. 

TC asks if you want to have some. You just smile, imagine where the fish used to live, and imagine how the serpant fish tastes. Welcome to Cambodia •

DEATH IN CAMBODIA (Part 1)

My Cambodian Story will be a series of misadventures. Feel free to comment. Comments that make me smile will get custom-made Flashbacks from the Flashpacker items.


You wake up to what you think are  monks chanting right outside your door. Could you really be in Cambodia? 

You get up and see TC, your perennial travel companion, still  slumped in your room's queen-sized bed, recovering from travel exhaustion. Though Siem Reap is barely three hours away from Manila, all the packing, airport transfers, waiting in airports, and immigration clearance take a substantial amount of your precious vacation time.


Petit Villa Room
http://petitvilla.com/

It's 7AM. Your first morning in Cambodia. Still a little concerned about the monks chanting, you open your hotel room's door. 

Immaculate: the hotel's swimming pool is just one cartwheel away.  Petit Villa has less than ten units, all facing towards the pool. It is more of a resort really, than a hotel. And being tucked in a quiet residential area, about 10-minutes away from Pub Street, you couldn't ask for a more relaxing vacation. 

What you see upon
opening your hotel room door

It was drizzling, so you had to be extra careful walking to the front desk to ask for coffee. You had to dodge all sorts of tropical flora. Yes, you feel like you are in the middle of a forest. With a pool.

Petit Villa's Pool

"Good morning," Sophea, one of the male hotel receptionists greets you.

"Good morning,"  the chanting in the air continues, "do you have any iced coffee?," you ask him, still half asleep.

"Yes, we have. I offer for you," he replies with a genuine Khmer smile. 

It's a jungle out there!

You have no idea what "offer" means in this part of the world, so you just smile. Sophea excitedly talks about upgrading your room since the AC was having its minor problems since you arrived. 

Now, who wouldn't say NO to a coffee offer and a room upgrade? And your vacation has just started!

You return to your room's terrace, just right by the pool. A day bed and two bamboo beach beds make you realize this is going to be the most relaxing vacation you probably will ever have. 

Theara, the uber-friendly
hotel staff

A couple of minutes after, Theara, the uber-friendly Creative Director aka Chef aka Room Service Attendant of the resort appears out of nowhere, with a huge smile on his face: two glasses of free iced coffee! By the pool! You tip him with whatever bill you have in your pocket: a dollar. Yup, they use USD in this part of the world. For workers whose average daily wage is $1-$2, that'd probably be equal to what he's going to make today.

The sound of monks chanting  continues. Raindrops kiss the 

Should you swim?

leaves of all the trees in the resort. Water from tubes cause ripples in the pool. 

As you wait for TC to get up, you lay on the yellow day bed covered with sequins. And while contemplating whether you'll start drinking TC's iced coffee too (yup, it is delish, you finished your glass in five minutes), Sopharith, the hotel manager, a 40-something soft-spoken skinny guy (everybody in Siem Reap is, you feel obese) walks up to your veranda.

Sopharith (S): We are really sorry for the inconvenience. Thank you for letting us know.

TC and Teddy
by the pool 

Jay, The Flashpacker (J): The air-conditioner wasn't working last night.

S: We are fixing other room for you. 

J: Is the air-conditioner stronger in that room?

S: Yes. And if you want, you can have massage anytime you want.

J: But you already promised us free massage. 

You were referring to the freebies promised in your booking confirmation.

Breakfast with TC

S: You can have lunch or dinner. 

I was waiting for him to mention the  operative word: free. All these freebies make you feel you'll be bankrupting the hotel any moment.

S: Later too, we have ceremony for the mother of the owner. She very sick.

Free Breakfast:
Fried Pork
Fruit Platter
Coffee

J: Oh, is that what the music is for? Referring to the monks chanting, you thought was part of everyday Cambodian life.

S: Oh no. That different. That music, Khmer instruments. Buddhist ceremony. For good luck and long life.

J: So there is another ceremony for the mother later?

S: Yes, here at the restaurant at 3pm. 

J: That's for the funeral?


S: No, for the mother of the owner who is sick.

You and your big mouth: The mother is still alive. <Insert sound of crickets here.>

J: I'm sorry... Ugh, Can we join the ceremony? Can we take pictures?

S: Yeah sure.

J: Isn't that disrespectful?

S: No, that's ok. We will take pictures too. There will be monks and they say prayer for the old lady because she in surgery for long time.

J: How old is she?


S: Maybe 69-70. Are you Buddhist?

J: No, I'm Christian. 

A golden halo appears above my head. <Insert "ting" sound here.>

S: Oh, because in Buddhist, before people pass away, they make list of bad things they did. Like if they hit animal or problem with mother. Because after they pass away, there's hill.

My eyebrows meet each other. Hill. Maybe in their afterlife, there are fields of wild flowers and all these wild trees on a hill.

Sensing i dont get it, Sopharith continues:

S: Maybe they go to hill or they go to heaven. 

Aaaah. I get it.

J: So maybe later, after we change room (at this point, my English is Cambodianized) we ask for the tuktuk driver to take us around. Do you have a mall? Or a market?

S: You can go to old market. But it's not clean.

J: Is it safe?

Superman AKA
Your Tuktuk driver

S: Yeah

J: As long as it's safe, I am okay with not clean.

S: And you can go to Lucky Mall. Where there is a grocery and expensive clothes.

No, you are not rich. 

He probably thinks you are. 

But the hole in your shorts should've given that away. ●